Stella McCartney set the bar high when it partnered with Cradle to Cradle’s Fashion Positive initiative in 2014, refusing to settle for anything less than the group’s gold-level standard. One year later, the British fashion house has yet to meet that goal—but as Claire Bergkamp, the brand’s head of sustainability and ethical trade, explained at last week’s Product Symposium in New York, that’s not a bad thing.

“We actually haven’t achieved [any Cradle to Cradle] certification yet because we won’t accept anything below gold for this project. We really want to push the boundaries of where we are,” she said. “We could achieve a silver or bronze level within this specific supply chain without a huge amount of work. It would still take some work, but the optimization we really want to do will come at the gold level.”

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