For James Jeans, muted patterns are key for fall. “Nothing too aggressive,” Hannah White, the brand’s central U.S. account executive, said, noting that last year’s “loud cheetah prints” are toned down with pale tonal versions. The same goes for James Jeans’ range of cargo pants, where muddy-hued camouflage is a collection standout.

In general White said retailers are back to “the classics” including boyfriend and skinny fits. Buyers are asking for skinny jeans with good retention, White said, reporting that the brand has good skinnies with a stretchy, gummy feel.

More attention is also being paid to softness. Skinny jeans are mostly kept clean and smooth in autumnal colors like deep plum. The brand is also doing well with non-denim cargos that White said feel like sweatpants, with an elasticized ankle cuff and a relaxed, slouch to their fit.

Subtle distressing and whiskering add interest to rolled boyfriends. For a classic biker look, the brand dabbles in zippers, placing them on front pockets, two by two.