• Y Project (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Y Project (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Y Project (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Y Project (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • GmbH (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • GmbH (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Cerruti 1881 (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD)

  • Off-White (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Hed Mayner (Photo by WWD)

  • Hed Mayner (Photo by WWD)

  • Loewe (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD)

  • Junya Watanabe Man (Photo by WWD)

  • Dsquared2 (Photo by PIXELFORMULA)

  • Dsquared2 (Photo by PIXELFORMULA)

  • Ami Alexandre Mattiussi (Photo by WWD)

  • Ami Alexandre Mattiussi (Photo by WWD)

  • Icosae (Photo by Dominique Maitre)

  • Y Project (Photo by WWD)

  • Frankie Morello (Photo by Simona Chioccia)

  • Facetasm

    Facetasm (Photo by WWD)

  • Frankie Morello (Photo by Simona Chioccia)

  • Frankie Morello (Photo by Simona Chioccia)

  • Dsquared2 (Photo by sicki)

  • Hunting World (Photo by Davide Maestri/WWD)

  • Represent (Photo by WWD)

  • Pal Zileri (Photo by Davide Maestri/WWD)

  • Pal Zileri (Photo by Davide Maestri/WWD)

  • N.21 (Photo by WWD)

  • Palm Angels (Photo by Davide Maestri/WWD)

  • Vetements (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Vetements (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Dior Homme (Photo by Pixelformula)

  • Officine Generale (Photo by Caroline Blumberg)

  • Christian Dada (Photo by Caroline Blumberg)

  • Christian Dada (Photo by Caroline Blumberg)

Denim was prominent in designer collections from Milan and Paris Fashion Week Men’s Fall/Winter 2018 earlier this month. And it falls in one of two buckets: slim and neat, or voluminous and loud.

Nevertheless, the runway continues to be a source of inspiration as designers pair denim with technical trims, vintage-inspired outerwear and nods to the ’90s.

Volume

Y Project’s thigh-high slouchy Ugg boots garnered all of the attention on social media, but the brand indulged that “bigger is better” aesthetic with oversized jean coats lined with thick shearling. Models swam in the boxy jackets, resembling children dressed in their father’s clothes.

Cloud washes and bright mid-tones added a hand-me-down vibe to twisted seam wide-cut jeans and multi-seamed jeans. Other Y Project bottoms were trimmed with colorful fur. A wonky layered Trucker jacket offered a slimmer, yet just as interesting silhouette.

Off White sent men down the runway in voluminous dark wash jeans, paired with billowy windbreaker jackets and jean shirts. Hed Mayner offered a drop-crotch version with a tapered leg and two-tone jeans with a bell-bottom shape.

Pal Zileri relaxed fit jeans were borrowed from the ’90s, paired with classic suede brown loafers and long double-breasted coats. Dior Homme’s jeans were fluid, wide and clean, while Officine Generale added unfinished hems.

Facetasm got the memo on oversized denim jackets trimmed with snow white shearling. The cozy trim crept up the front and sides of Truckers. Vetements showed relaxed jeans with step hems, frayed seams and laser cuts.

Slim

Flood length jeans also populated the shows.

Cerruti 1881 presented straight legs in light washes with logo knits. Loewe played with deep cuffs that landed roughly at mid-shin. Ami Alexandre Mattiussi turn cropped jeans into the perfect partner for slick pull on boots and washed out styles for chunky white sneakers.

Dsquared2’s most commercial styles included straight leg jeans with minimal distressing. Pal Zileri’s light washes straight leg jeans ended right at the ankle to show off colorful socks.

Represent updated slim slouchy silhouettes with cloudy washes. Slim silhouettes by N.21 were punctuated with inside out washes.

Novelty

Denim was fully incorporated into concept collections.

GmbH brought cargo pockets, knee seams and zippers front and center. Military and ’80s influences were evident in clear blue denim bomber jackets with moto stitching from shoulder to wrist, and high-waist double-fly jeans.

Moto influencers were prominent in Frankie Morell’s collection deep with slim black jeans with worn-in knees and whiskering. A black leather and denim jacket is accented with a single blue jean pocket. Frankie Morell carried the patchwork onto skinny jeans and boxy denim vests embellished with rows of novelty patches.

Reflective tape added a jolt of color to Junya Wantanbe Man’s collection of clean and pressed jeans. Icosae brought shearling trim and lettering to two-tone jean jackets.

Overt Western influences were seen on Dsquared2 and Palm Angels’ runway. Dsquared2 presented yoke denim shirts with floral embroidery, distressed jeans with large belt buckles and hide and hair vests. Palm Angels channeled a vintage farmer look with high-rise straight leg jeans that fell just above the ankle.

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