A global roster of denim mills will present their Autumn/Winter 18-19 collections at Munich Fabric Start’s Bluezone in Munich, Sept. 5-7. Targeting the German and Northern European markets, mills will bring forth innovations and new product lines that touch on hot topics such as sustainability and performance. And as always, highlight the right trends for the season.

Sustainability Wins

Artistic Fabric & Garment Industries (AFGI) is again working to redefine the possibilities of sustainably-produced and recycled denim. Henry Wong, AFGI director of product development and marketing, North America, said fashion and performance jeans are “more eco-friendly than ever when cut from AFGI’s denim made from recycled jeans and plastic bottles.”

The Pakistan-based mill uses its new, advanced indigo dyeing technology, which saves a minimum of 50 percent water compared to current industry methods, to provide true sustainable denim products that do not sacrifice aesthetics, softness and performance. Wong noted that even mercerization chemical is recycled via state-of-the-art machinery.

Tejidos Royo is taking a 360-degree approach to sustainability with Project R, a concept that reduces water, contaminants, emissions and energy. New for Autumn/Winter 18-19, Royo uses post-consumer denim as a raw material resource, diverting it from landfill and incineration. The Denim Recycled Collection is offered in stretch and stretch colors, including black, blue, brown, khaki and dark gray.

Royo is also introducing the Nanami Collection, a development based on the Japanese concept that creates an irregular effect and open construction in the fabric. Nanami denim is characterized using the color 413, which gives the fabric a vintage appearance. The Nanami collection is based on Royo’s “Save Water, Fill Seas’ mission to minimize water consumption. The process utilizes zero waste water in the dye process and reduces energy by 80 percent.

On Trend
With denim fashion trends taking a sharp shift away from skinny jeans, Artistic Milliners is providing solutions to better suit new comfier cuts and nostalgic designs. The mill will present Sunday Jeans, a concept that uses smart fibers like Tencel and Modal to create supple blends and drapey constructions. Ebru Ozaydin, Artistic Milliners director of sales and marketing, noted that the fabrics are engineered with the right amount of stretch to help designers create great looking fits with a soft hand feel.

Royo’s solution for drapey denim is Bleisure, a collection of fabric with three-dimensional elasticity in length, width and depth. The versatile fabrics blur the line between business and leisure, resulting in styles with elegant, utilitarian and soft tailoring.

For brands that want to tap into the craze for ’90s nostalgia, Artistic Milliners has created a collection of specific fabrics with the right aesthetics to create modernized ’90s fits. “Our 90210 fabrics take back to original Levi’s look of the era, revive and refresh a traditional palette for timeworn vintage appeal,” Ozaydin said. “The incorporation of stretch technologies provides a hidden comfort for the wearer paying tribute to iconic marble look and open twill.”

Brazil-based Vicunha keys into vintage and authenticity with plain open weaves and ring effects for men and women. Retro shades of blue and darker, deeper dyes allow a multitude of wash effects suitable for looser silhouettes and throwback styling. The mill says heavier weights—traditionally for the men’s market—are picking up momentum in women’s fashion.

Atlantic Mills has a warp-only stretch selvedge, which gives the comfort from stretch, but has the ’80s look of selvedge as it used to be worn. The mill uses 90 percent BCI cotton and 10 percent organic cotton in its range, including in its retro selvedge story.

Italian mill Berto captures the ’90s look in Rewind, a collection of authentic looking denim with a modern interpretation. Most importantly, the collection is designed with the least environmental impact possible, starting with the choice of raw materials. Berto counters this trendy look with Forward, a collection that reimagines modern classic designs with indigo. The result is elegant indigo pieces for every occasion enhanced with the feeling of comfort and freedom of movement.

Azurite by Arvind

Arvind tells a story rich in indigo heritage. The India-based mill will highlight Azurite by Arvind Limited, a collection of fabrics touted as “denim bluer than blues.” Made with indigo saturated fabric—with indigo in the warp and weft—Arvind develops deep blue hues targeted toward brands and designers with a pure love for indigo denim.

Performance Pleasers
Performance is still relevant for brands. Artistic Milliners’ Ozaydin says the recently launched Urban Commuter concept will continue to focus on combining performance, sustainability and “climate control fabrics” using natural eco-friendly fibers from Invista, Cordura and Lenzing.

Royo turns its attention to performance denim with a new collection called Atmosphere. Geared toward outdoor activities that require maximum comfort and protection, the performance fabric provides thermal insulation and protects against rain, wind and cold temperatures. The fabric is made with high temperature resistant fibers and disperses body perspiration through ultrathin breathable hydrophilic lamination.

Vicunha follows up last season’s release of its first temperature control denim with an expanded line that uses high-tech yarns from fiber producer Nilit. The mill introduces Body Fresh, a denim with antibacterial properties; Aquarius, a fabrication that wick moisture away from the body; and Breeze, a denim fabrication that maintains constant body temperature after physical activities or in warm climates.

Vicunha’s performance collection complements the ongoing athleisure trend, a look the mill sees becoming increasingly popular in the men’s market. “We see this trend continuing and customers growing their options and adding new weave variations,” said Thomas Dislich, Vicunha Textil managing director for Europe and Asia.